Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
